Demonstrations & Practicals: The reality of the course

My third week in Paris is well underway and I’m somehow five practicals in to my first term at Le Cordon Bleu. Today, I’m holed up feeling like the weather is: a bit grey. Something that isn’t grey, however, is the experience so far.

My last update, I had only just been to the Induction Day: uniforms and equipment were issued and a great sense of hope and trepidation followed myself and my fellow classmates. Slowly I’m getting to know who they are, why they have come to Paris to study like I have at this internationally prestigious school. Some are, like me, amateurs who will turning professional but others have a lot more experience in food of some sort. It’s a great mix of nationalities and skills and it’s marvellous to be surrounded by people who share the same passions.

The demonstrations are intense three hour sessions where chefs prepare multiple creations to a certain theme such as Apple Tarts.  From our hefty ringbinders, we will be provided with all the ingredients lists of each recipe that will be demonstrated, but no method; this is where are notes are vital. We then will take these into the practical sessions that follow where we are graded on our recreations of either one or two of the demonstrated recipes. For anyone who watches The Great British Bake Off (or your country’s equivalent) – it’s very much like the technical challenge but it is explained to you beforehand.

The practical sessions are usually a day or so after the demonstrations which allows time to try out techniques before you are graded on them but, in the case of yesterday and tomorrow, these sessions are immediately after the initial demonstration allowing no time for reflection or note sorting. This can be tough and I know that this will be the case more so as we get into the course where more complex techniques are required. The challenge that this brings is great but then I kind of enjoy the baking rush it provides.

We work in the kitchens in groups of 14 where we are all positioned at a station which provides us with a marble worktop, a stove and a fridge. Having always been of the ‘messy amateur’ variety in the past, I have never before been so aware of my Grandmother’s famous line: “A good cook is a clean cook”. We are graded on this and emphasis is on a workstation clear of excess, unwanted equipment and ingredients. I can tell you that it honestly makes all the difference. Being clean, ordered and organised makes for more successful bakes – you feel more in control of the task ahead and you don’t drop marks which are so easy to keep hold of. (My mother has been informed and she is over the moon that I’m finally around to her way of thinking.)

I’m dying to give you some more whimsical posts about cake and Parisian life and they’ll finally be making an appearance next week. The accommodation search in Paris is proving to be tough (I should probably write a post about that in its entirety..) so life admin is taking a front seat in this first month.  I have, however, set up a Facebook page ( https://www.facebook.com/thecapedpatissiere ) to give quick updates and photos of what is happening and interesting things I’m finding out to keep you up to date, I hope you can follow it, if you haven’t already. It’ll also make up for the fact I wrote a rather lovely post at the weekend but the draft wasn’t saved… WordPress is not my friend at the moment.

Until next time.

The Caped Pâtissière

 

Intrepid Impressions of the First Kind.

I’m not writing this sitting in a kitchen sink because, well, Parisian kitchens are notoriously small with their sinks also to scale. No, I write this sitting in my Parisian home for the next month – a charming appartement located in the 9e arrondissement (the city of Paris is divided up in to 20 districts – this is located just west of the Gare du Nord, bordering Montmartre, just a stone’s throw from the Sacre Coeur so any comparisons with Audrey Hepburn’s Sabrina are most definitely warranted).

As I recline here in my armchair, the warmth of the French summer air is at odds with the almost autumnal temperatures we’ve been experiencing in London. When I descended from the Eurostar on Sunday afternoon, warm continental air enveloped me with its mystical, exotic urgency, embracing and welcoming me back to France. Whenever I’m walking up to my current pied-à-terre, I am struck by the authentically, undeniable Parisian vibe to it: the hubbub of conversation through the open windows of neighbouring buildings whilst I attempt to float in an elegant fashion up its spiral wooden staircases makes me feel utterly cinematic.

My Le Cordon Bleu induction took place today. It was a packed affair in both French and English (I successfully only spoke to staff and chefs in French and hope to keep up this precedent) with miniature pastries and a hefty amount of equipment and uniform to be dished out. It wasn’t overwhelming because, well, it didn’t quite seem like it was happening. Five years ago to the day, I was visiting Paris for the first time with my mother, I could never have envisaged this then and, even now I’m here, it all seems quite unbelievable.

After an unrivalled summer, I almost didn’t want to leave London behind even with such a momentous year to look forward to: dear friends were close, things all fitting into place in many different ways, but if there is something I’ve learnt from the past year it’s that putting yourself out of your comfort zone is completely worth it, even if you feel almost sick with nerves before. As soon as I arrived on French soil again, the nerves dissipated. This wasn’t some foreign land I was arriving in but a place I had already lived in for a year, a country where I am starting to speak the language to a level that means I can get by in many situations such as opening up a new bank account today entirely in my non-native tongue. (Can I get a high 5?) Not only this but I am now living in Paris which is a different experience to my life in the middle of a forest in the Loire Valley: a pulsating metropolis full of some of the world’s finest culture, cuisine, cake and let’s not forget the cheese…

I hope that my blog can now come to life now that my Parisian Patisserie Year is starting. Ultimately, it’s a way to keep friends and family updated on my progress and also, I hope, outline my experiences at Le Cordon Bleu to future potential students. Not only will I be discussing patisserie and my course, but I hope to be able to write about other experiences of living in Paris for the first time and on a tight budget. As a whole, therefore, It’ll be a record for future me of a past self I think I’ll be patting on the back.

Depression

I was overwhelmed at the response I had to a post I wrote a few months ago in regards to my Grandparents. A very personal post, and not related to baking, I still wanted to publish it on here and not separate it from all things culinary. Again, during a recent confinement to my bed due to the ‘flu, I wrote this. Not at all baking related but I like to think this page more of a personal endeavour rather than wholly devoted to one strain of my existence, however wonderful it may be.

Every so often I find myself frozen on the end of my bed. Time stands still. I can be there for an hour, sometimes it’s a whole afternoon or evening. It’s silent, music is not something that will soothe and I don’t want to get a favourite album or artist involved. I’m not crying but a smile is too hard to muster. And I just sit there, waiting… For over ten years, this has happened, it’s just one facet of what I experience when I am going through a depressive period.

A social media generation, we are all too fixated on the seemingly never ending happiness and joys of other people’s lives. You might be reading this having seen my status updates from France wishing that you could leave everything and have my ‘exciting life’; I know I’ve seen photos from others, possibly even you, with a similar yearning. But the life we all broadcast isn’t the full reality and we all realise this: it’s the edited highlights. I tell myself every day how lucky I am to be here in France, to be working towards my dreams, and yet there is always an end-of-bed moment to be had every so often. They are far less frequent and don’t have the intensity that they reached at points in the past dozen years or so.

Two years ago, I finally summoned up enough courage to seek some medical help as I finally admitted to myself there was a problem. I was actually feeling a lot chipper than I had been feeling (it took three months from my GP referral to my first session) but I was diagnosed with moderate anxiety and severe depression. Unfortunately, this was too late to assist me with the struggles I experienced at university, which affected my grades as a result, but in terms of life as a whole, it wasn’t too late and it never is.

Here is the thing, admitting something is sometimes the hardest step. I never wanted to have this defined because that would make it real. But the thoughts and my health are not dictated by the name of a condition but rather the symptoms. I was also nervous about being defined as such when, at the time, several people dear to me were on medication for the same thing; I was the ‘strong’ person and felt my feelings were not allowed as this would harm the recovery of those close to me.

Some people dismiss depression as just general sadness at life’s events but this shows a certain ignorance surrounding it. Yes, no person has a life free from sadness and loss, but depression goes beyond this. It doesn’t appear when you want it to, or always at these low points. It can taint those happy peaks in your life – it can dull your feelings of joy and excitement even if you want desperately to feel them. I am a person who lives for moments of toe-twitching anticipation, cinematic skips of exaltation, effervescent crackles of pleasure but during depressive periods even the most life-affirming of events can fall on a deaf soul.

Some people are very brave and are open about their condition but others are more secretive, understandably considering archaic views cemented in certain corners of the media during the recent airline disaster in the Alps. I laugh the loudest at parties, I love wholeheartedly and I like to think most people don’t see my deflated self when I’m at my lowest ebb. I’m no different to anyone else, depression or not, it is just one part of my existence and I hope, no, I know, it doesn’t define me or my life.

If you feel that you need help, seek it. Don’t be fearful of a diagnosis because the help to aid a recovery from a low point is far better than your definition-less mental fight. You aren’t alone. There are plenty of us about, more than you realise, and whilst we’re not all waving banners, not celebrating our mental state, we exist. We don’t declare our depressive dips in Facebook statuses – being floored by chest paints is hardly something I want to shout out to my contemporaries – but we’re existing in a similar way. Simply being able to talk about what you are experiencing might be able to elevate some small part of what you are going through, or maybe you need something stronger, either way, there are things out there to help you. Don’t struggle alone, search for help and utilise resources to help you in whatever way they can. Life is precious, try and live it in the best way you can.

The Future

My blog silence has been due to quite a high volume of extraordinary things happening. From now on, the blog is going to take a slightly different form but with good reason.

This time last year, I set myself a challenge to work towards a long held dream of mine: to study Patisserie at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. As you might be aware, I first started out trying out traditional, celebrated French pastries and cakes from the comfort of my cottage kitchen in the English countryside. After a summer of baking, I made the bold move to pack my bags and set off to France to become an au pair so I could learn French and accelerate my language skills. That’s where we were up to…

The past couple of weeks, things have really snowballed in the most fantastic way. I applied for Le Cordon Bleu last month with the most heartfelt letter of motivation I’ve ever had to write the result of which meant I have been accepted – I start on the 1st September. Once again, I can ready myself for a new school year in a way that I never have before – all aquiver with excitement for the challenges, exams, hard work ahead. Alas, not something that ever was the case with my Politics degree. I realise that there are quite a few blogs out there by people detailing their experiences of Le Cordon Bleu and life in France but another one won’t hurt. I hope that my information will provide another person, somewhere in the world, with the lightbulb moment that this is what they want to, and that they can achieve it.

The past weekend gave me a completely new and exhilarating challenge: I was fortunate enough to be invited to work in the kitchen of a Michelin starred restaurant near to me in the Loire Valley. To see and aid such skilled and talented chefs in their natural ‘habitat’ was a great honour and certainly something I will not forget. Long hours, no windows and great demand all sound daunting but I assure you with a great passion for food, it is an addictive environment. I am already missing the buzz and bustle, the floral language, the heat and the velocity of a professional kitchen and I look forward to experiencing further adventures within similar walls.

One of the reasons for not posting up so much is my desperate need for perfection when it comes to recipes. Stored on my computer are hundreds of images that I take when I make a new creation and I have a fair few drafts of posts waiting to be published. I have been mainly working from books so far, with a liberal sprinkling of web pages and other blogs, to provide the recipes I have published so far. I make my own additions, adjustments if required, but feel that currently, I cannot post enough original content to justify these posts.  As I develop my creative side, I assure you I will post up my recipes. If I discover recipes that I have found work, I will post my results with links to the necessary original recipe.

So – here’s to the future. I will, within a few months, be leaving the peaceful Loire Valley for the fast paced and animated Paris. My French is coming along but needs a great deal more work. I am looking ahead and searching out new projects. It’s all going to plan so far but I need to keep driving myself forward to achieve even more. I had a dream and I’m trying my best to realise it which just goes to show how much determination plays a part in success.

Epiphany and La Galette des Rois: A lesson in why baked goods elevate a normal celebration in to a great one

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Apologies for the amateur phone shot of the Gallette des Rois – my camera wasn’t at hand and it was about to be wolfed down by a pair of hungry children.


Over the past few days, there has been a buzz here in France whilst across the Channel, I can bet that things have been bleak. The decorations are all having to be taken down and you have started to feel guilty about playing Wham!’s unsurpassable ‘Last Christmas’, the greatest Christmas song of all time (all opinions stated in this post are my own and possibly do not reflect that of the wider world or anyone other than myself).

Today, the boulangeries have been busier than usual, excited children have had their faces pressed against the glass salivating at the thought of what is to come and I’ve been twiddling my thumbs all day in anticipation. L’Épiphanie is big news here on the continent but it a celebration that is, sadly, flat in the UK. France is divided in what it serves up on the 6th January – the south opt for the Gateau des Rois, a brioche bejewelled with candied fruits whereas elsewhere the Galette des Rois is king and this is what I have been lucky enough to eat this evening – a puff pastry case hiding frangipane and a little fève, more on that shortly.

Nowadays, the Galette des Rois is not just served on Epiphany but throughout January which does quite dampen the excitement but does mean that if you are visiting France within the next month, you can also give it a try. Children devour surprisingly large quantities of it but it’s a dense thing – pastry and cake together sounds dreamy but a small slice really does suffice. My French mother described it as ‘lacking in finesse’ in all its carb-y glory but went on to explain that this time of year would be empty without it; after all, it’s more than just a highly calorific treat to mark a religious festival.

Upon entering a boulangerie today, you would have seen great swathes of crowns resting upon an ocean of pastry – this is important. The crown obviously signifies the day which we are celebrating, that of the Three Kings, but it is also part of the traditions surrounding the eating of the galette. The galette is sliced according to the number of people eating it and the youngest sits under the table and orders who will get each individual slice (I honestly thought the youngest was playing games with me earlier…) Upon eating the galette, the person who finds the fève in their appointed slice is crowned King or Queen with the crown that lay on top of it and appoints a consort. The fève literally translates as a broad bean and, sure enough, originally these were beans but these days they have taken a different form. Usually made in porcelain, a fève can take many different forms – this evening our fève was a miniature mille-feuille. The Galette des Rois is therefore not just a galette but a real annual event for all the family.

I was intrigued as to why the UK didn’t have a similar tradition because, well, who doesn’t love an excuse to celebrate with a special cake? It turns out that we used to, fève and all, and it was consumed on Twelfth Night, the evening before Epiphany and, another opinion, one of my favourite Shakespeare plays. For some reason, the tradition fell by the wayside and so us British have a cakey void after the Christmas period – maybe it’s a result of the onslaught of diets commencing at this very moment in households up and down the nation.

I end my Epiphany, therefore, with a kind of Epiphany, how apt for the writing of this piece – it’s almost as if I planned it. We should really resurrect a sadly deceased tradition which is, gladly, still alive and well here in France. Whilst you’re sobbing into your Christmas decoration box, during your final guilty playing of a favourite Christmas song, a slice of cake is probably just what the doctor ordered. The nights are long, the weather is cold but a heady mixture of pastry and cake to celebrate with your family and friends makes for a far more bearable start to the new year.

Grief

I wrote this piece a few weeks ago and it’s not food related but goes a small way in to showing what has spurred me on to follow my dreams in France.

On my top lip, I have a scar from falling off a rocking horse when I was a little girl. It’s something that will never heal, it would have done so by now after all. My other scar isn’t quite so visible: it’s not located in such a prominent and public position and it’s perhaps not even a scar, more a wound that is prone to opening at the most bizarre of times; it is called Grief.

Over two years ago, I lost my maternal grandparents within six weeks of each other. For me, they were everything. My grandfather was the embodiment of the perfect gentleman: patient, kind and loving. He was also a fantastic grandfather, teaching me so many things from the importance of love, to morse code, to the art of letter writing and all that comes in between. Grandma, on the other hand, was the ideal foil to the sensible nature of Grandad – she was a person who relished life, who truly lived, so to not have her around any more was not something I could fathom. She was hilariously funny, she was generous and she was larger than life itself.

My father’s parents died when I was very small and I recall a time, about three or four years after, double the age I was when they’d gone, curled up in the corner of my kitchen crying. This would happen at intervals throughout my childhood. I cried not because I missed them for I could not truly remember having them around, but I cried because I never got to know them personally, hear their life stories from their own lips.

I grew up, therefore, under the watchful and loving eyes of one set of grandparents and they meant the world to me. We were lucky to spend every Sunday together. Christmas always really started when they rang the doorbell, slightly groggy from their insistence of going to midnight mass, but beaming and radiating a love that only grandparents really nail. The seasons all brought their own traditions and the years rolled past collating a heartful of memories that all appear to bask in a golden glow. Growing up with them around, I never considered a time when they wouldn’t be there. How could people so central to your life leave it? It was never an option that appeared logical to me.

At the age of sixteen, sitting on my windowsill in my bedroom, their mortality dawned on me. My grandma, banished to the top of the garden to have her after-dinner cigarette, was on the ground. She’d fallen over, it was nothing serious, but rushing down the stairs to go and help her, I realised she wouldn’t always be there. This was also the start of her dementia which, in many ways, is a disease that forces you to grieve whilst that person is still with us, in body at least.

The mortality of Grandma and Grandad became a reality at that point. No longer would they travel the world together seeing the Great Wall of China, playing cricket in Sri Lanka or riding camels in Egypt. They stopped playing golf, windsurfing, flying aeroplanes. Grandma retracted back to that second childhood courtesy of her dementia and Grandad kept all their memories safe and showed an incredible display of strength in the face of losing his true love, that girl Freda who’d been his blind date 65 years previously.

It was the 2012 Olympics when, out of nowhere, Grandad became weaker. He’d always been so strong and so with-it that, in spite of his 89 years, it was a shock. A few days before he passed away, he had a sudden surge of energy and I made the most of it with him in his armchair, the french doors open and me sitting beside him.The weather was warm, the buzz in London was humming in the background on the television. I got the toy suitcase filled with a mismatch of assorted sized black and white photographs and vowed to look through them one last time with him. It was a ritual we’d do together every so often that I’d never envisaged a final time. The next day, he was back in his bed, drifting in and out of sleep. I rested my  head on his shoulder and held his hand. I can still feel the soft, paper-like texture of his aged skin now.

He passed away a few days afterwards taking all the memories of his life, of his life with Grandma, but he lived a wonderful life. Grandma was left behind. It appeared to be the best order: Grandad could have never lived without Grandma but the upside of Grandma’s dementia was that it meant she couldn’t really fathom her loss, or so we thought.

Five weeks afterwards, Grandma’s doctor and carers said that Grandma was strong, she could be with us for another two years or so. She had never been told of Grandad’s passing in case she could understand but not vocalise her loss – she communicated solely by whistles and popping her mouth. That Friday, I sat at my desk at work and my phone rang like it had done 6 weeks previously. “You need to come now, Grandma’s dying.” The words didn’t sink in, they floated on the air, they lingered but they didn’t penetrate. It couldn’t be true.

The drive across town was the slowest of my life: tractors blocked the route, every traffic light turned to red and all the Sunday drivers had got their days mixed up. I ran out the car, I dashed along the corridor and I collapsed by the side of her bed. I kissed her, I thought I’d made it. I thought I could see her chest rise and fall, I thought I could feel her there but she’d already gone. My heart screamed just like it had done a few weeks before; I let out an almost primal noise but no matter what I did, it didn’t bring her back.

Until the funeral director could come to the home, we sat in her silent presence. Looking across to her bed, I saw a smile on her face. Grief makes you more attuned to the spiritual, and I felt that she was reunited with Grandad. Why else would she have gone so soon after? Her dementia had meant we had believed she was not aware of what was going on but her passing had a silver lining of sorts, it made us realise that she knew more than we realised.

A day or so afterwards, my mother and I looked out of the window at home and on an arch covered with roses, two doves sat on the metallic curve and stayed, locked in their gaze with us, for a couple of minutes then took flight. We’d not seen them before and we haven’t seen them since. I like to think of it as a sign that they were together again.

Over two years have passed without them around and it hardly seems possible. I will be struck by the emptiness of a life without them at the oddest moments but from my weakness is this regard, I’ve attempted to form in to strength. My grandparents taught me many things but one of their most important lessons was to live a life, not coast through it. For this reason, I’m attempting to realise my dreams in France, to make them proud. When I’m in the kitchen concocting baked goods, I have my Grandma by my side like she was throughout my childhood teaching me in the first instance. When I go jogging, my Grandad is spurring me on – I even have his old running jumper when it’s colder.

Grief is an odd thing and time doesn’t cure all wounds as people would like us to believe. A third Christmas without them is just about to get underway but, even after all those days, weeks and months that have passed, it still doesn’t feel the same. The scar of their passing remains and will never truly heal. I’m not alone in this. To all of you grieving freshly or otherwise, I hope there can be some comfort at this time of year – we have their memories in our hearts and it is here that the memory of those we loved and lost lives on.

Life Update: Late 2014 Edition

My blog silence has been self-inflicted. Life has been going along at such a pace that the energy has been lacking for putting my kitchen exploits in to words; this will be remedied within the next week or so. A fortnight ago, or thereabouts, I acted like some kind of Cake DJ, conjuring up creations, by request, for a lovely collection of guests hosted by my French family. The kitchen has been abuzz and it feels wonderful.

Here in France, the initial honeymoon period has died down – it feels less like a holiday and more like every day life. This is not a bad thing, in fact it’s something I embrace. If you told me in the depths of Autumn last year that within 12 months I’d be settled in to the French lifestyle, making friends with whom I could only speak French to and running 5k three times a week I’d have called you a multitude of things but ‘honest’ would not have been one of them.

When I first arrived in France, I could not speak French. I’d studied it at school but my confidence was seriously lacking and a classroom 8 years ago had not really taught me the subtle nuances of everyday French conversation. My Spanish friend, Elena, tried to speak to me but I was even afraid to ask her how she was – these days we laugh together, update each other on our lives and even arrange our weekends and evenings. Whilst my accent is not a perfect thing, so many French people say how adorable an English accent is when speaking French (a similar thing is believed in the reverse for the French with their English) that that has also boosted my confidence. I was so caught up with sounding ‘French’ and being fluent that I forgot that at the root of it all, I wanted to communicate with other people.

Whilst not baking related, though a necessity connected to the after effects of eating a hell of a lot of baked goods, I am now running 5k. At the beginning of the year, 30 seconds of running put me in to a mild panic attack, longing for my sofa and an end to what I considered a living hell. Now, however, I look forward to my runs in the forests where I live. Yeah, I am the worst type of person.

What does this all show me, or you for that matter? With determination, you can achieve the things you thought impossible. Learning a language and telling yourself that you are not a language person is a stupid idea. You’ve learnt one language, you can learn another. Look at how many people are bilingual (or multilingual for that matter) in the world – are all these people ‘natural language learners’? No. Yes, it’s hard work but don’t expend ‘impossible’ about so often. When it came to running, I thought I’d never be able to do it, but bit by bit, I can run further and then faster. It’s do-able.

Now, with a similar determination, I am tackling my imminent application to Le Cordon Bleu. I finally visited its hallowed walls on Monday and immediately realised it was the place for me (I visited other Patisserie schools but they didn’t have the same feel for a variety of reasons). There are some things regarding Parisian life (such as funding such an extravagant thing) that I am trying to work out but with a positive outlook and a lot of research, I’m hopeful. I have a few things in the pipeline that I will update you on when they happen (mysterious, huh?) which should aid me for my studies and my life beyond.

So, I’d better get to the other posts and lunch is imminent. That’s one of the most wonderful things about living in France: so much joy and time is dedicated to food. Great for the soul; for the waistline, a different story.

Until next time,

The Caped Pâtissière

If the choux fits: Choux pastry and its plethora of uses.

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I’ll be straight up with you: I actually just want to dedicate a whole post to choux puns but you’ll probably choux me away so I’ll get on with the job in hand. I intend to add to this post when I add to my arsenal of choux recipes and any time I find anything that might make the process easier. I’m learning and by no means an expert.

Pastry, they say, is difficult; don’t listen to ‘them’. Choux pastry, especially, is completely within your reach even if you’re new to this whole baking thing. And, once you’ve made it, you are on the cusp of creating such classics as eclairs, profiteroles, Paris-Brest (recipe up in the next couple of days) and religieuses. I’ve only scratched the surface. They also can be deployed in a savoury fashion too, like most pastry. Master this and you’re in for an enviable choux wardrobe of delights.

Some recipes call for just water (Paul Hollywood, for example) but I have found a mixture of milk and water to be better for the final choux like Dan Lepard, Nicholas Felder and the Cordon Bleu book itself.

Sweet Choux Pastry

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125ml milk (full cream, if possible)
125ml water
1tsp salt
1tsp sugar
100g butter
165g flour, sifted
3 – 4 eggs

1. Preheat the oven to 200°C and prepare a baking sheet by buttering it and covering with a dusting of flour. I use a baking sheet liner instead of butter and have found this to be great: it allows for the bottoms of your choux to  be perfectly cooked and not stick.

2. Put the milk, water, sugar, salt and butter into a saucepan. Once the butter has melted, the sugar and salt dissolved, the mixture should come to a boil.

3. When the mixture comes to a boil, remove from the heat and add all the flour in one go (using a sheet of parchment to fire your flour in works well). With a wooden spoon, mix until it forms a ball of dough. At this point, return to a low heat for 30 seconds to a minute and dry the dough out slightly.

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4. Now, leave this dough to cool. You don’t want to add the eggs immediately as the eggs will cook straight away. After about 20 minutes, start adding the eggs, one by one, mixing the dough thoroughly between each addition. I added 3 eggs in total for mine. You are looking for a dough that falls slowly from the spoon when lifted. The dough will look smooth and glossy.

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5. Now it’s time to load your piping bag up with the choux. For Paris-Brest and eclairs, I have found using a star nozzle to be the best way to pipe. Pipe the shapes that are relevant for your final product. Once you have done this, use an egg wash and your fingers to smooth out any joins or bumps and then brush the wash over with a pastry brush and banish to the oven.

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6. Bake until golden all over and well risen. Do not open up your oven door as, like a cake, this will cause deflation. Allow your choux to cool completely then do the necessary with them to create your final choux product.

Salted Caramel & Chocolate Mud Cake

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Those on a strict diet are probably advised to look away now – this is not for the faint-hearted nor for those that opt for a fruit salad when given a dessert menu. This is a cake for those that desire salty sweetness, decadent richness and unapologetic calories. The chocolate mud cake has a moist brownie-like texture, in spite of its long cooking time, and can last for a month if wrapped in cling film and tin foil in a cool place and still taste like it was baked yesterday (if it doesn’t get all eaten up before then, that is).

Before setting off for France, the cake was perfect for two occasions: firstly as a celebration cake for a couple of friends’ birthdays and then, most recently, to feed a large crowd at a summer BBQ in the beautiful depths of the Berkshire countryside. Both times, I baked it in my 33cm rectangular tin which is a size of cake suited more for feeding the 5000. Below, I’ll give the ingredient list for the large version and also for a smaller 20cm round tin which you’ll likely already have in your cupboards.

Finally, I whipped this cake up for a heaving table full of expectant French at the weekend. I felt nervous, hoping that I could fulfil their expectations of the tall English girl that dreams of studying Pâtisserie in their country. I had to come to terms with an oven I’d only used briefly the night before (for a New York Cheesecake) and confront the internal battle in my head that, if this didn’t go to plan, they’d wonder why I was even here. It turns out that the cake was a success with both young and old. Seconds were had by those that aren’t really ‘cake people’; such is the power of this formidable gateau.

The following recipe divides itself into three parts, all of which can be used independently if you so wish.

Chocolate Mud Cake

Ingredients for 20cm round tin (quantities for 33cm tin in brackets)
Butter – 190g (440g)
Dark Chocolate – 190g (440g)
Instant Coffee – 4tsp (2 1/2 tbsp)
Water – 140ml (320ml)
Self Raising Flour – 110g (280g)
Plain Flour – 110g  (280g)
Cocoa Powder – 40g  (110g)
Bicarbonate of Soda – 1/4 tsp (1 tsp)
Caster Sugar – 420g (960g)
Eggs – 3 (8)
Vegetable Oil – 6 tsp (3 tbsp)
Buttermilk (I also use natural yoghurt which I’ve found works just as well) – 95ml (220ml)

Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 160°C and grease and line your tin, if necessary.

2. Put the butter, chocolate, coffee and water in a pan and melt over a low heat, stirring as you go.

3. Sift together your flours, bicarb and cocoa powder then add your sugar and stir. Make a well in the centre and add the wet mixture of eggs, oil and buttermilk/yoghurt. After, add the slightly cooled chocolate mixture and stir completely. (My Kitchenaid heaved under the weight of the 33cm tin quantities, the bowl was completely full. If this is the case, alternate with the mixer and a spatula to make sure everything is combined.)
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4. Bake in the preheated oven for 1 hour and 40 minutes for the 20cm circular tin or 2 hours and 40 minutes for the 33cm rectangular tin. If your oven is vicious, then cover with tin foil to avoid the mixture catching. You might find that it takes less time, you might find that it takes longer. Towards the end of the cooking time, and not before, open the oven and test the cake with a skewer. You are aiming for it to be clean but it could be sticky and that’s fine.

Leave to cool completely before icing.

Chocolate Icing (adjust quantities accordingly – this amount will be enough for the small cake, simply double for the larger version. Please bare in mind that caramel is being added to this so the overall yield will increase)

Ingredients:
Butter (at room temperature) – 50g
Icing Sugar – 150g
Chocolate (I usually use dairy milk but, by all means, whack in some 80%) – 4 squares or so, melted.
Cocoa Powder – 20g
Milk – 20ml

Method:
Simply mix together the soft butter, cocoa and icing sugar before adding the melted chocolate and milk. Mix until combined at a low speed and then raise the speed and continue for about 5 minutes or until light in texture.
If you have a sudden urge to make your icing but your butter is still stiff, I recommend beating it with your mixer first before adding the dry ingredients. Microwaves are a fearsome beast when softening butter and you don’t want it melted.

Salted Caramel Sauce
This is, unashamedly, a Nigella recipe. Please click here to access the recipe. Fleur de Sel is rife in France but my local Waitrose at home doesn’t stock it so I tend to stick to good old Maldon Flakes which works every time. The recipe is so easy to do and has so many uses (including just eating out of a bowl… or so I’ve been told…)

Add this caramel to the icing with a quantity that you deem fit for purpose and mix together. When icing the cake, I add further caramel in lines across and decorate according to my latest whim.

ET VOILÀ!

 

 

A New Beginning

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This is, really, the start of my blog. I have taken a new and unexpected change to my pâtissier plan which is, let’s be honest, rather more exciting. I am writing this in France but not, as you’d guess, on a late summer holiday but starting a new life in order to fast track my pâtissierie aspirations.

I decided that the best course of action to learn French was to live in France. A bold move, perhaps verging on ridiculous, but one that I think will be ultimately worth it. I am one week in to being an au pair to two wonderful children in the Loire Valley, near to Blois in the most spectacular location. The early September sun is streaming through the windows of my petite maison (the quaint place pictured above), complete with kitchen so I can continue my baking endeavours. It’s all rather perfect. 

Over the course of the next year not only do I hope to speak French to a standard that would allow me to study Pâtisserie in France but, also, improve my existing skills beforehand. I packed my books, my baking equipment and my determination in 2 suitcases and I’m ready to start again with renewed vigour. (I do also have some clothes but they were a less pressing item on my packing list.)

I hope to blog about my pâtisserie experiments in my ‘laboratoire’ (my kitchen as called by my incredible and supportive ‘French Maman’) as well as detail my experiences living in a country where I rudimentarily speak the language. Also, my exploits as an au pair and life in the Loire Valley. It’s a multifarious concoction, distilling my life into words and pictures which I hope you will enjoy.